Monday, September 28, 2020

18th-century cutlass belt

This is the first complete sword belt of any kind that I've made.  I intended to do it on the cheap but still stick to period materials as best as possible.

The buckle is by Roy Najecki (item EA here).  You can order it with or without a tongue; I ordered mine with one.  The tongue is iron and rather sharp.

The leather is all vegetable-tanned.  It's stained with double-strength, heavily steeped black tea and vinegaroon; the tea supposedly enriches the leather with extra tannins for the vinegaroon to react with so that the leather's own tannins won't be depleted, which would result in degradation and cracking over the years.  The vinegaroon itself is iron (in this case fine steel wool) dissolved in vinegar.  This is not a dye, but a reagent; it looks like pond water or tea, but turns tannins black.  After staining the leather, I neutralized the vinegaroon in a mild baking soda solution until it stopped fizzing.  It's finished with neatsfoot oil and beeswax.

The stitching is coarse waxed linen cord, since I wasn't sure fine stitching would be strong enough.  To keep the end knots from chafing against clothing, they're on the outside, which gives it a rather sloppy appearance.

The frog fits the scabbard in the same way as my Bowie knife frog:  The sleeve is slightly oversized for the scabbard and pops open when pressed from the sides so it becomes tall enough to slide over the button, allowing the button to be pressed through a round buttonhole, which is just wide enough for the button's neck but has a slit to either side to let the button through.  While I was test-fitting it after stitching, I found that the sleeve was a little too tight for me to easily get the scabbard back out.  So I had to finish attaching the frog to the belt itself with the scabbard encumbering it.

Most replica sword belts of this kind that I've seen are upwards of two inches wide.  This one is only 1-1/4 inches, in accordance with guidelines at Gentlemen of Fortune.  It chafes a lot when worn over only a shirt, but on top of a waistcoat or justaucorps it would probably be okay.  It's also a very functional design, in that when buckled tight enough, it allows you to draw the sword one-handed.

This sword is a Dixie Gun Works 1742 British infantry sword.  It's a nice sword for the money, but I'll soon be attempting to replace the hilt.  You'll see whether or not that turns out in another month or two.